Beneath a giant tent, complete strangers queue to buy lunch. Around them, vegetable beds overflow with cucumbers, strawberries, garlic and courgettes, while an apple tree shades a table laden with rye bread, homemade pickles and a simmering pot of seljanka, a tomato-based soup with ham and smoked sausage. Guests order from a simple printed menu before carrying bowls of steaming soup to communal tables to eat.