西装比现代服装更像科技产品
Suits Are Better Tech Than Modern Clothes

原始链接: https://devz.cl/posts/the-lost-tech-in-contemporary-clothing/

作者描述了自己如何逐渐克服最初对正装的不满,并最终爱上西装,因为西装极其舒适、实用且耐用。量身定制能够适应作者非典型的身体比例,尤其是腿和躯干的长度;相比之下,标准化制作的现代服装往往不合身,还可能需要使用勒紧腰部或位置不合适的腰带。 西装还设有尺寸合适、容易拿取的口袋,可以装手机、笔记本、笔、充电器和餐巾等随身物品。纽扣比拉链更容易维修,传统款式的夹克和大衣通常也比现代服装更耐穿。作者还批评女性服装缺少实用口袋,因此女性往往被期待随身携带手提包。 尽管有这些优点,作者却很少把西装当作日常服装穿,因为主流时尚观念和社会期望会让正装在日常生活中显得不合时宜。作者的结论是:西装在身体舒适度和功能方面都更胜一筹,但社会习俗限制了它的使用。

一场 Hacker News 上的讨论认为,合身剪裁的西装具备许多人们常归功于现代休闲服的特点:耐用、舒适、可定制、永不过时,而且只要保养得当,就具有长期价值。喜欢西装的人表示,西装可能比牛仔裤和 T 恤更合身,能让穿着显得更有档次,还配有实用口袋和纽扣,并且更容易获得赞美。他们还指出,普通服装同样可以采用定制剪裁。 另一些人则反驳说,西装价格昂贵、在文化上已经过时、面料选择有限,而且通常需要干洗。便宜的休闲服也可以耐用且制作精良,而舒适度在很大程度上取决于合身程度。西装作为身份象征的吸引力也因文化而异;有些评论者认为,如今的正式穿着显得不自然,甚至“令人尴尬”。总体而言,这场讨论表明,西装制作工艺真正的优势并不在于其专属感,而在于人们能够获得合适的剪裁和精良的制作。
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原文

Violet-backed_starling_(Cinnyricinclus_leucogaster_verreauxi)_female.jpg – Today’s wikipedia picture of the day. That bird looks classy. Violet-backed starling by Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0

Every now and then I have to wear suit and ties. When I first started doing so I hated it. The suits didn’t fit me, the shirts made me feel claustrophobic, the shoes hurt my feet, etc. Then as time passed, naturally I bought more traditional/formal clothing out of necessity, and as I bought the clothes I had them adjusted for me. That made a vast improvement for my comfort.

Note: ties feel a bit useless but at least they hide my belly when movement slightly opens the shirt.

Nowadays I do it gladly. I love wearing suits. I’ve noticed I feel way more comfortable in them than in normal clothes. So I started thinking why.

After a few seconds of thought it’s because of two things: comfort and utility.

When I was in school, in arts class we were studying canonical human proportions. There was an assignment to do a paint that demonstrates that we can paint anatomically correct humans. I thought I wasn’t very good at drawing or painting, so what I did was I asked someone to take a picture of my front and my back, and then I traced and copied that picture for my painting.

When I got my grade back, it was a 4.0 out of 7.0 (in Chile grades go from 2.0 to 7.0, don’t ask me why). That was one of the lowest grades I ever got, and when I asked the teacher, who was unaware of the fact that that was a close copy of my picture, her answer was that the subject’s legs proportions were all wrong and close to deformity.

Thankfully I do not have any major deformities. But that’s when I understood that my proportions can be and are way different from the average proportions of others. I know for a fact that my leg-to-torso proportions are shorter in comparison to others, especially when I buy clothes.

Suits are made to be able to be tailored to the wearer’s measurements. But modern clothes aren’t. For example, even though there are high, medium, and low rise pants, I can’t adjust their rise to my proportions. Same story with the waist. So much so that it’s virtually impossible to get a proper combination of rise and waist proportions in modern clothes for me. They are always wrong and it shows, notably when wearing belts. For my suits the belt is an accessory, the pants rest perfectly on my waist. But in my normal pants I have to strangle them at my waist because regardless of size the pants slip and shift.

I could continue ranting the same way with shirts, but the point is proportions vary a ton and modern clothes don’t account for that.

There’s this trend called techwear. It looks like people dressing straight out of a Hideo Kojima video game. There’s a fashion aspect to it, but functionality used to be a core pillar of the trend (which seems to be dying nowadays).

MORE POCKETS PLEASE

Suits may look traditional but their functionality stats are through the roof. You have three front pockets, two inner pockets, a dedicated slot for pencils, the pants pockets are perfectly sized. I can carry my phone, notebook, pen, pencil, napkins, charger, and more. All within my suit jacket.

Buttons > Zippers

The failure mode of zippers is full replacement and time inefficient. Buttons may fall but they are VERY easy to place back in.

It’s even worse for women

The pockets women get are practically useless. There’s a data-driven essay here that gets more into detail, but to me it’s infuriating to see how my wife is bound to having to carry an (arguably also impractical) handbag just because that’s what fashion states: women have no pockets and have to carry everything in a handbag.

Coping through backpacks

One day I asked my little brother what he was carrying in his backpack. The answer was he carried it mostly for having a CHARGER and some napkins always with him, with the added benefit of carrying pen and paper occasionally. Those are all things that can be carried in a well suited jacket.

Wearing clothes wears them

Of course, but with traditional clothing my jackets aren’t falling apart. My modern jackets don’t last more than 5 years. But I have a traditional coat that my dad gifted me that is as old as I am, and it still looks great. And don’t get me started with t-shirts. For some reason after a few years wholes start appearing in them out of nowhere. My main suspects are either moths or the seatbelt pressing them against my belt’s buckle.

Even if I feel physically more comfortable in suits, and they are functionally better, I won’t use them when it’s not needed. The only reason is that it’d be socially awkward. Everyone wears street/modern fashion, and I don’t want to really go to a friends house in suit and tie. It sucks but that is the way things are.

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