Have you watched retro computer repair YouTubers and thought you would like to try that? Well, you can!

I am going to show you the retro computer repair and refurbishment process I have put together through hard experience so you produce less magic smoke, miss fewer opportunities, and collectively more machines are salvaged from the computing graveyard.

Before we begin, though, I am NOT an expert and this is not an expert guide. I am learning and documenting over time, so you can avoid my mistakes.

You will still make mistakes, though, and that is ok! While the vintage computer refurbishment hobby (and it is a hobby in its own right) is not the cheapest, it is not the most expensive either, so consider any mishaps along the way as learning experiences.

The goal is simple:

• Make your machines safe to power up
• Make them work reliably so you can have fun with them
• Keep them usable long term

You will notice I do not “retrobright” them with chemicals to remove yellowing, I do not focus on aesthetics much at all. This is not about achieving museum-grade restoration but to have something working (and hygienic) that you can enjoy owning.

A guiding principle

Always move from:

• Least invasive
• Lowest risk
• Easiest to undo

before more complex and destructive steps.

Many faults can be found without desoldering anything.

Retro Computer Electronics Troubleshooting Process

A warning before we start – If it ain’t broken don’t fix it. It is easy with fragile, vintage electronics to damage things that were actually working fine!

Common casualties:

• Keyboard membranes and ribbons
• Brittle plastics and key stems
• Old connectors and crimps

If something works and is not causing problems, think carefully before dismantling it.

1. Visual inspection

Before plugging your computer into power, open it up and inspect the board(s) closely.

In good light, and perhaps magnification depending on if you have older eyes like mine, look for:

• Shorts where things are connected that should not be, such as solder bridges
• Cracked or scraped joints
• Burn marks or discolouration
• Corrosion from battery leaks, leaky capacitors, or spilled beverages
• Broken traces, lifted pads, bent pins
• Previous repair attempts or bodge wires

Patient, close inspection costs nothing, needs no fancy tools, and often reveals faults before you really dig in.

2. Mechanical and continuity checks

There are many parts that fail mechanically through use, get dirty in storage, or simply go bad with age.

• Power switches and reset buttons
• Keyboard connectors and ribbon cables
• Edge connectors and sockets
• Fuses and obvious protection components

Still with power off, use a meter to confirm continuity through switches and cables, gently flexing wires while testing.

3. Before replacing, cleaning and reseating

Before rushing into replacing parts, ensure everything is connecting and communicating correctly.

• Reseat socketed ICs as they can be loosened by travel or heat expansion
• Clean edge connectors (if you are going to be plugging in peripherals and cartridges) and pins, in really grimy cases using a fibreglass pen and contact cleaner
• Remove dirt, grease, and old flux with isopropyl alcohol

Dirty contacts can mimic serious logic faults.

It’s worth reiterating that power must be off and unplugged for all cleaning because liquids and exposed electronics do not mix. Old electronics can also be sensitive to static electricity, though the risk is often over-stated, so take care.

4. First power-on checks (current-limited if possible)

Only apply power once the basics look safe. I do not recommend using 40-year-old power supplies. Modern replacements exist for all the most popular vintage computers.

In a couple of cases I have purchased “not working parts or repairs only” machines on eBay only to discover it was bad power supplies at fault!

That said, it is not always possible to get replacements and also you might be impatient ready to get using the machine you acquired, so if you do try an original power supply carefully check it first.

Pay extra careful attention to the input, output, and polarity of the required power supply of the computer and any PSU that should come with it. By example, many broken Amstrad NC100 units are from incorrect power – the input jack requires 6 V center negative.

Ideally, if this is an option for you, use a bench power supply with current limiting features.

• Watch current draw during power-on
• Compare with known-good values where possible

For example an Amstrad CPC 464 typically draws around 0.6 to 1.0 A

If current is far too high, way too low, or near zero, there is an issue.

5. Thermal checks

With power applied and current appears within reasonable range

• Carefully feel for components heating up rapidly
• Pay attention to regulators, RAM, and logic chips

Anything getting hot quickly and excessively is a strong clue.

Do not leave power applied if overheating is obvious, and be careful to not burn yourself!

6. Power rails

Confirm the basics before chasing down logic or signal problems.

It helps if you can find the documentation, circuit diagrams, data sheets for what you are inspecting but failing that you can usually deduce the pathway that ground and power take through the board from the power input.

Roughly speaking, TTL logic is considered high or positive when over half the reference, so if 5 V is expected but only gets 2 V it will not register correctly

Power traces tend to be thicker and chunkier than data lines, for example.

• Check all expected voltages
• Verify regulators are behaving correctly
• Look for “sagging rails” (power voltage below expected) or excessive ripple (a DC rail should be constant rather than wobbly).

This means:

• Measure connections both right at the regulator output and at chips further away.
• Check voltage both at idle and under load
• Power that drops dramatically when the machine is active can cause random crashes or missing signals.

Power issues often point to:

• Failing regulators
• Dried-out or leaky electrolytic capacitors
• Excessive current draw from a shorted or failing chip

Excessive ripple usually shows up as:

• Unstable behaviour
• Audio noise or hum
• Logic that works intermittently or with corrupted output

With your multimeter set to voltage reading, compare at various points across the board and watch for voltage changes when activity increases.

Use your oscilloscope (if you have access to one) to check DC rails for visible ripple rather than a flat line.

Many seemingly logic problems or faulty chips are in fact power problems.

7. Capacitor health checks

Electrolytic capacitors especially age badly in vintage machines. These are the ones that look like little water towers.

Ceramic, disk shaped capacitors fail less often but are still prone to physical damage through rough handling or being taken out by other parts of the circuit popping.

• Look for leakage, bulging, corrosion – do not mistake flux residue or other dirt and grime for capacitor leaks, though.

• You can destructively test electrolytics that are highly suspect by snipping a leg and testing with your multimeter in capacitance mode, or if you have one, an ESR meter. Once tested you can replace or repair the snipped leg with solder.
• Prioritise power supply in particular.

Do not replace parts blindly, but do check any known weak points.

8. Signal checks

Don’t assume your visual checks revealed physical issues immediately, there could be problems lurking in the shadows, perhaps even intentionally hidden.

This area is where it is especially handy to have a logic probe or oscilloscope.

• Check clock signals, resets, and chip-enable pins
• Confirm keyboard scanning, data and address line activity
• Look for stuck lines (stuck high or low), floating, or missing signals

Compare behaviour against datasheets and readings from known-good machines if possible.

Essential tools

• Digital multimeter with at least continuity mode, better if also has capacitance feature
• Good positionable lighting and magnification
• Selection of screwdrivers and nut drivers

Very useful tools

• Bench power supply with current limiting
• Oscilloscope and/or logic probe
• Fibreglass pen and/or soft brass brush
• Soldering iron with temperature control
• ESD-safe brushes

Cleaning and Consumables

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

• 90% or higher preferred
• General PCB and contact cleaning
• Evaporates without residue

Wipes

Lens or sterile wipes are fine if pure IPA-based and lint-free. Avoid scented or detergent-based wipes, especially any with additives.

Cotton buds

• Pointed tips for hard to reach areas such pins and vias
• Rounded tips for connectors and light scrubbing
• Avoid any fluffy types, firm is better

Contact cleaner

• For switches and connectors
• Use sparingly!
• Allow to dry fully

DeoxIT D5

DeoxIT is a specialty contact cleaner with a particular recipe that also leaves contacts protected:

• For oxidised electrical contacts
• Not a general-purpose cleaner or a rust remover

Despite the overly eager can propellant, try to use sparingly, and only where electrical contact matters most.

Plastics, cases, and keycaps

Avoid harsh chemicals anywhere on a retro computer but also be aware that cleaning liquids, for example acetone, could even melt the plastic.

While I am less concerned about appearances, I also know the dismay when a previously ok-looking machine is disfigured by a rushed clean.

Be careful in your effort to not accidentally remove old badges, scratch or smudge printed details such as keycap text, or bleach/discolour the case.

For cases and loose keycaps, with no electronics attached:

• Mild detergent or glass cleaner
• Rinse or wipe with clean water
• Allow to dry fully

Drying

Air drying slowly is safest but I know also we like to see results now so gently blowing with a hair dryer on low heat is often ok.

Avoid heat guns or any other focused heat, keep the air moving without lingering over any specific spot.

Also be careful to not allow residue, sludge and grime to collect in corners or sensitive areas.

Rust: what to do and what not to do

When we see rust it can cause unnecessary concern. Rust, for example on steel backplates, often looks worse than it is. It is usually cosmetic, not functional

• Do not soak assemblies
• Do not flood with chemicals
• Do not aim for bare shiny metal

A much safer approach is to prioritise function over appearance:

• Dry, mechanical cleaning
• Remove loose rust, leave staining
• Stabilise rather than strip

Vinegar can remove rust, but only if:

• Contact time is short
• It is neutralised afterwards
• Parts are dried immediately

Without proper neutralisation, rust often returns worse than before.

For small parts, replacement or simple mechanical cleaning is often safer.

Bottom Line

Remember the people we admire on YouTube have several advantages to us learners.

First, we mainly get to see edited highlights of their successes, because even most successful basic repairs are not all that interesting to watch.

Next, they tend to have access to a lot more machines, known good parts, and fancy equipment than we do.

And lastly, they were not born with all this expertise and experience either – if it takes thousands of hours to become an expert of course we are going to feel clumsy in comparison!

Restoring retro computers, or any fault finding really, is about systematically working through classes of problems, not guessing and randomly replacing components.

Each step should either give you more answers or at least tell you whether it is safe to move on.

If you get stuck, remember there is a whole wide community of help out there ready to give advice! As well as the Retro Game Coders community, Lee from More Fun Fixing It has a great discord with lots of helpful and knowledgeable people too.