日本小酒馆的秘密世界
Inside the secret world of Japanese snack bars

原始链接: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20260116-inside-the-secret-world-of-japanese-snack-bars

日本小吃店起源于20世纪60年代,是亲密的社区场所,提供独特的社交体验。最初,它们只是提供家常菜和饮料的简单柜台,在70、80年代夜生活蓬勃发展时期,作为舒适的替代选择而兴盛起来。 这些“小吃店”成为社区中心,特别是对于寻求联系和归属感的上班族而言。其特点之一是“瓶藏”制度——常客在酒吧购买并存放他们喜欢的威士忌或烧酒,从而建立持久的关系。 如今,日本拥有约10万家小吃店,数量超过便利店。像五十岚这样的爱好者现在提供导览,旨在向新一代——包括日本人和外国人——介绍这些具有文化意义的空间,在这里,“妈妈桑”用自制食物和真诚的款待营造出家庭般的氛围。

这场 Hacker News 讨论围绕着一篇 BBC 文章,文章探讨了日本小吃店的独特文化——这些小店环境温馨,提供食物、饮料和交流。 用户 rmason 分享了这篇文章,引发了 wolvoleo 的回应,他将舒适的日本体验与荷兰的“小吃店”进行了对比。荷兰的小吃店通常是自动化的,或者由不友善的人员经营,只专注于快速、油腻的食物。 Wolvoleo 还分享了他对日本的个人感受,指出其保守的传统(例如对 LGBTQ+ 权利和纹身的看法)使得在日本难以感到舒适,尽管他欣赏这个国家和它的人民。然而,他表示如果再次回到日本,有兴趣寻找这些受欢迎的日本小吃店。 这篇文章突出了在体验和看待休闲餐饮方面存在的文化差异。
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原文
Many snack bars are little more than a counter with a few stools and a small kitchen (Credit: Michelle Gross)

By the late 1960s, women-run snack bars had proliferated nationwide. Originally, these humble neighbourhood fixtures offered little more than a counter with a few stools, a radio and a small kitchen where home-style dishes were served with whisky, beer and highballs (Japanese whisky and soda water). As Western culture increasingly poured into the nation in the 1970s and 1980s, and glitzy nightclubs and discos took over Japan's major entertainment districts, snack bars began to flourish as a quieter, more intimate alternative. They became community hubs, drawing in salarymen and regulars craving conversation, familiarity and a sense of belonging.

Many "snacks" adopted a unique bottle-keep (botoru kiipu) system that still exists, where regulars purchase a bottle of whisky or shōchū (a homegrown Japanese spirit), label it and store it behind the bar for future visits. This custom turned a casual drink at the local snack into a lasting relationship.

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Today, it's believed that roughly 100,000 snack bars operate across Japan – which, as Igarashi noted, is more than double the number of the nation's ubiquitous konbinis (convenience stores). A self-described "snack enthusiast", she has visited more than 1,200 snacks bars across Japan. In 2021, she started offering tours to snack bars to connect younger Japanese residents and travellers with places they either might be too intimidated to enter – or, in the case of foreigners, never knew existed.

"In many towns, I witnessed travellers and regulars laughing together while the mama treated everyone like a family for the night," Igarashi said. "Because of this, we created the [snack tours] as a gentle guide – [like] someone who opens the cultural door for new visitors."

Mama-sans typically offer homemade dishes or snacks alongside drinks (Credit: Michelle Gross)
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