那些令索菲亚·科波拉着迷的青少年肖像
Joseph Szabo’s pictures of American adolescents

原始链接: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/the-teen-portraits-that-captivated-sofia-coppola

作者回顾了乔·扎博(Joe Szabo)的摄影集《美国青少年》(*American Teen*)如何唤起人们对 1970 年代强烈的怀旧之情。除了前数字时代社交生活那种熟悉的慰藉感,该书还呈现了一个独特的、不修边幅的中性时代:宽松的衣着、长发,以及那种无需追求外在完美的压力,共同定义了当时的青少年身份。 作者将这些影像与如 Replacements 乐队作品《Androgynous》中所捕捉到的、充满希望且具有性别流动感的精神联系在一起,并将那种“中性进化”与当今围绕性别认同激烈的文化辩论进行了对比。归根结底,这本摄影集呈现了一幅清新且客观的青春肖像,捕捉到了青少年在属于他们的时代与圈子中自在存在的那种毫不费力的“酷”。

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原文

I went to high school in the late nineteen-seventies myself, and “American Teen” made me nostalgic for how hanging out felt then, powered by the implicit guarantee that between classes or after school you would find your friends posted in their usual spots, and they would have time for you, so much time. It reminded me, pleasantly, too, of a kind of low-key, free-to-be-you-and-me androgyny that I associate with that era. In Szabo’s pictures, the guys and girls alike wear jeans a lot; many of the boys have shoulder-length hair; the clothes are often loose and layered (big sweaters, denim jackets, overalls, plaid shirts over tank tops), and nobody looks hellbent on perfection. That scruffier, cozier version of androgyny coexisted in the culture with the more flamboyant gender-bending of glam rock. The seventies were fun that way. Flipping through the book, I thought of the Replacements song “Androgynous,” from 1984, with the hopeful lyrics “Now, something meets boy, and something meets girl / They both look the same, they’re overjoyed in this world / Same hair revolution, unisex evolution / Tomorrow, who’s gonna fuss?”

As it happens, the fussing—about gender identity, about teen-agers and their anxieties—has only got louder in recent decades. Szabo’s photos, by contrast, are remarkably free of fretting or judgment. They are a reminder of how cool teen-agers can be, in their own tribes, on their own time. ♦

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