The motion sensor looks like a decent improvement on the existing one. I have to admit that I don't have the battery life issues that many people seem to have with the current model, but I've only got two of these sensors so maybe I got lucky.

The door sensor looks weird though. It seems a lot larger than the equivalent Xiaomi Aqara sensor. Maybe it uses AAA batteries instead of coin cells or something.

Generally speaking, I really like the Ikea Zigbee stuff. Everything I've got is well-supported by Zigbee2MQTT, including OTA updates. Most of my Ikea stuff has never even been paired to Ikea's hub.

Thanks to Zigbee being a standard, you can use a Zigbee hub/adapter from any vendor you like. The Zigbee sensors themselves have no network connection and therefore noway to warrant privacy concerns really. There is no WiFi/Ethernet or internet involved with anything Xiaomi here.

I'm using a bunch of these Aquara Zigbee sensors with the open source Home Assistant software and hardware, they are for the most part fantastic.

I would take Zigbee home automation devices over crappy wifi ones any day of the week - its a vastly better protocol/methodology for hooking these sorts of devices up. Your home's lights functioning properly ideally should not depend on bulbs/switches being able to get an IP address etc (sigh)...

> https://www.home-assistant.io/skyconnect - USB adapter for Zigbee from HomeAssistant you can plug into any box you like.

> https://www.home-assistant.io/yellow/ - HomeAssistant server hardware with Zigbee radio built in.

[0] https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D37FKGY/

Aditionally the comment you are replying to is a dongle to provide a single board computer (or a computer in general) with ZigBee conectivity.

Ideally you would run a trusthworthy open source OS and hub software.

Choosing a foreign government to spy on you rather than your own government isn't a clear choice. While a foreign government is less likely to be interested in you personally and likely less able to directly cause you harm, you also have less recourse against them than against your own government and their interests are less likely to be aligned with yours.

Additionally, your government may be able to co-opt the compromised devices anyway and would certainly have an incentive to do so.

I'd also question that a device that is by-design-compromised is otherwise secure from bad actors. It is difficult to imagine the incentive structure that would make that possible.

Finally, once this personal data has been harvested by either government, there is nothing to stop these governments or rogue elements within these governments from trading or sharing that data with your own government or other actors.

American businesses are forced to share our private data witn three letter agencies. Conversely, I can't imagine any leverage, money or lawful, that would cause a Chinese citizen living in China, with families in China, to be so stupid as to collaborate with the US government in any way, unless they wish for their families to be sent to labor camps.

My data is safer with the Chinese. I don't like it, but that's where we stand with our privacy.

At this point, I’d trust a (likely) disinterested state actor over one that has been proven to be actively malicious.

Best policy I abide by is to prevent any data from exiting my network or remote control period. I don't care who is spying.

If you're more worried about the US then China, we must live in a different world :)

Unless you took great care with sourcing your electronics then they're already packed with chips/parts from china.

If you _really_ want to you can use a nRF52840 (Nordic Semi is from Norway), or I think a few TI chips (USA), and use those as a gateway instead with home assistant (might need to add an extra library). Even then, both companies have manufacturing plants in china AFAIK so...

Run your own Conbee stick and the value is off the charts.

Zigbee2mqtt is the bomb. ZHA can't hold a candle to it in terms of reliability, features and device support. The tiny increase in complexity is so worth it.

I have 45 Zigbee devices in my home, 33 of which are battery-powered. Those are door contact sensors, PIR motion sensors, climate sensors, and a few button remotes to control lighting. They're mostly from Sonoff and Aqara, with a few unbranded Aliexpress devices that identify themselves as TUYATEC, and a couple from Third Reality. In almost every case, the battery life has been extraordinarily good -- well over a year. The only exception is the Sonoff SNZB-04 contact sensor, which seems to need battery changes about every six months. Probably not coincidentally, it's the only sensor that uses CR2032 batteries, rather than AA or AAA. I would happily replace with a slightly larger sensor to get both longer battery life and less e-waste through the ability to use a standard rechargeable AA/AAA battery.

https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/tradfri-wireless-dimmer-smart-w...

This is the newer one: https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/rodret-wireless-dimmer-power-sw...

I have a few SmartThings motion sensors that are at 2-3 years battery life, though they use big lithium cells so that isn't surprising. A few sonoff temp/humidity sensors on coin cells seem to be heading for at least a year battery life as well. So far it's only the Ikea buttons that have issues.

Those Ikea buttons look pretty ordinary, so I can't think of why they'd have such poor battery life. But they seem to be the only difference between our respective systems.

These are the buttons I use most: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802252738635.html

I have switched to HomeAssistant with a Zigbee USB adaptor and there are no more battery issues.

SmartThings are aware of the issue but do not care enough to fix it.

I'm well aware of how terrible SmartThings the company is. I'd suffered through their inadequacies until April 2023 when they deleted my account during a failed backup purge. After 3 months of waiting on their support to unlock my hub I gave up and went to homeassistant.

I have noticed a difference between Duracell coin cells purchased at Costco and Amazon Basics coin cells. The Amazon Basics ones didn't last long at all, the Duracells seem much better.

The newer dimmers (STYRBAR) use AAA cells instead of coin cells, so I'd expect them to last a lot longer.

Related, Panasonic's rechargable eneloop have worked very well for me, I'm kind of excited to see AAA be used in the IOT devices where it can fit.

I have a lot less of a problem swapping batteries if I just have a few charged ones on hand and get at least many months in-between replacements.

Just a heads up: IKEA's brand of rechargables are likely rebadged eneloops at about half the price, also made in japan. Though for the AAA's they only have eneloop regular equivalents not eneloop pros.

It does, which is a big selling point for me. I’m trying to standardise on rechargable AA/AAA batteries wherever possible. A lot of devices recommend you only use alkaline batteries because of the extra voltage but I haven’t actually found one that doesn’t function on 1.2v eneloops yet.

Meanwhile nonrechargeable batteries get cheaper and cheaper so I just buy them in bulk now. Call me selfish, I guess.

Quite a number of leaks come from the braided pipe feeding water to your cistern, as they often only have a five-year lifetime

All this low power electronics designed to run 3 years on a coin battery bothers me. If it's that low power why not get rid of the battery, slap a tiny solar panel (the kind they used on calculators in the 90s) and a supercapacitor, it should be able to power itself indefinitely on normal levels of room light, never go into deep sleep states, and can even turn the room lights on automatically if it needs more power.

One is in my home office to turn the lights on and off, it works fine and I've never had problems with it not detecting me. It's not instant, but always responds within a second or two.

The other one is sitting by the cat litter boxes and is used to trigger an automation involving an air cleaner. It senses the cats at a range of about 1.5m just fine.

The next thing I'm interested in is the crop of mmWave presence sensors. There are a lot out there and I'm not sure if there's a clear winner in this space yet.

I've got a bunch of IKEA smart lights, motion sensors, plugs etc around the house and they've worked flawlessly for years, all integrated into home assistant.

You don’t expect them to have tech stuff but they are very low key about the stuff they dohave.

Being able to pick your own coordinator/"hub" and use devices across all different brands like Ikea, Philips Hue, Aqara, etc. is a really great experience.

This is a fantastic community resource example: https://zigbee.blakadder.com/sensors.html

Also, you wrote matter over thread, but the thread is the same as zigbee. From the rest of your post you mean matter over WiFi.

Ideally, a water leak sensor should be used help to catch a slowly failing appliance so you can repair/replace it before it does major damage, not preventing it from doing damage in the first place due to a sudden major leak.

Drain pans won't handle a catastrophic failure. I installed this in our house to protect against pipe failure. We had the old grey poly-b pipe (since replaced) that was used in the late 90s.

You can DIY this if you are handy with soldering copper pipes, or get a plumber to install it for a couple hundred bucks.

Apparently water damage claims cost exceeds fire.

[0] https://www.geoarm.com/wv01lfus125-fortrezz-z-wave-automated...

Knowing that this was happening would not have likely saved the bathroom, or the laundry room, but it might have saved the kitchen.

Point is: for water leak scenarios you should think about both clean water coming from inlets as well as clogs in your outlets.. I should get a couple of these to place behind my lowest toilets, where the water came up last time

The leaks that haunt me though... several under the house in the crawl space. Copper pipe pinholes, caused I don't know how much damage (including several ruined water heater elements, maybe even causing the water heater to fail prematurely). Ruined floors. Until they got bad enough that we had no hot water (which was about the time the floor started warping), there doesn't seem to be anyway that we might have noticed. The water bill wasn't unusually high, or maybe it just frog-boiled its way up where we couldn't. There were several more copper pinholes, but they were noticed as muddy places in the crawlspace while fixing the first, or just spidey-sensed. I am also very nearly too fat to crawl under the house, let alone do emergency plumbing while there.

Another incident involved a squirrel. The idiot owners of this house (before us, not the current idiot owners) decided that the easiest place to put new plumbing was in the ceiling (maybe they were too fat too?). Our attic had a new uninvited guest, and apparently PEX piping is very tasty. Or appears that way, the squirrel lost his appetite after biting enough of a hole that there was a leak from above. This leak though, despite the location which should have made it almost instantly obvious, happens almost within 5 minutes of a torrential downpour that lasted better than an hour. That, plus my unwillingness to believe the previous owners had routed plumbing above everyone's heads, meant we didn't get that taken care of quite as quickly as we might have.

My lessons from this, I think, are:

1. We might have caught the crawlspace leaks quickly if there were a humidity sensor (is that how the leak sensors work?) down there, and we could have compared to baseline. That is, if spraying water didn't just fry them immediately.

2. The ceiling leak probably couldn't have been detected very early, given the coincidence with the rain and how it would have raised humidity. Possibly if we had a water pressure sensor, that would have picked it up as a drop, despite there being no faucets running.

Plumbing sucks. Houses build 50 years ago assumed that it could never fail often enough to make it easily accessible. My next house will take into consideration squirrel mitigation concerns.

They must be doing it by analyzing the usage data somehow. Maybe they alert when there are too many hourly time intervals that all have almost the same usage (since a leak would be continuous and constant). Or maybe if it has been too long since they've seen an hour with zero usage. Something like that.

Anyway, it should be able to catch leaks anywhere in the house.

Much better would simply be digital water meter tracking (which is still amazingly hard to actually do) since when all the taps are off, if you still have substantial water use then you probably have a leak (I would really love a decently accurate ESP-based water meter with like, Sharkbite fittings on it so I could check the water flow out of all my taps or something).

Really happy with it so far. Will definitely be getting a couple of leak sensors when they become available.

My new LG TV has a built-in Matter Thread hub, so Thread sounded perfect. No proprietary apps needed, compatible with everything. Just point your phone at the QR code to pair. Fully local, low-latency mesh networking. But it's new so the devices are more expensive and there's a really limited selection. The early-adopters of Thread experienced some reliability issues but those have been fixed (?) I can't find much info about LG's Thread hub implementation but it seems like I'd need to add new devices through LG's app and I'm wary about how LG's integrations tend to be unreliable and how they try to turn open standards into de-facto lock-in experiences.

Zigbee and Z-Wave felt like old news to me. The last vestiges of the semi-open proprietary home automation market for people who are already locked in and willing to pay $60 for a light switch. I really don't want to have to buy a hub. I also had some bad experiences with some very expensive ZigBee wireless relay modules I used in a product at work. I think this thread is causing me to rethink ZigBee. Cheap, open, compatible. I wanted to get a low-power always-on server to host the Grafana/MQTT for my Open Airgradient air sensor anyway, so I may as well plug a Zigbee dongle in and run Home Assistant. Might get a Home Assistant Green or Yellow.

Touching light switches seems savage to me now. I walk in a bathroom, and the light needs to come on, and it needs to be very dim after 10pm.

You can do this without connected devices, depending on the configuration of your bathroom!

You can get night lights that plug into an outlet, turn on when it’s dark, and brighten when they sense motion. I have some Casper ones (that also let you disable the motion sensing): https://www.amazon.com/Casper-Sleep-Glow-Night-Light/dp/B09L...

You can also configure you bathroom with multiple lights where some are connected to dumb motion sensors. e.g. Panasonic makes bathroom fans with a primary light and a night light - you can connect the night light to something like a Lutron Maestro motion sensor that goes in the wall where your light switches are. (Or if you want to get fancy, you can get a ceiling-mounted motion sensor and a radio-capable Maestro switch/dimmer that can communicate only locally with the motion sensor.)

I actually got touch guards installed on all the switches so the guests don't press them - you can still poke it with a pencil and toggle. In almost 10 years, I have never had to do it.

The only drawback is that if the power goes in and out - all the lights come on. This is where remote functionality is useful, if you are away.

Maybe there's a setting that was changed? When I mess up my HA setup mine just work as "regular light bulbs" with the light switch.

I have several that some of the time I use a regular light switch to turn on/off and you wouldn’t know they weren’t standard led bulbs.

I'd seriously consider getting a Zigbee USB stick if I knew these function well and have good battery life. I just bought several $40 Z-Wave door/window sensors that got decent reviews, but at 4x the $10 IKEA price, I'm not going to be buying many of them.

Like other commentators, I have both z-wave and zigbee networks running. Z-wave has better standalone penetration (lower frequency), but if I were to build from the ground up again I would go all-in on zigbee. One of the few reasons I have a z-wave network at all is a smart lock, but these days there are more zigbee offerings there.

All lights in my house are hue bulbs, using a deconz setup controlled by home assistant. My aqara motion/contact sensors get ~2 years of battery life.

Since ZWave is licensed and controlled, I've only had issues where (actual example) a siren supported playing multiple tones but the hub didn't support that particular feature directly.

My experience with Zigbee is slightly different. Being an open standard there are lots of cheap choices however it also means that because there is no licensing to use it, not all of the devices branded "zigbee" are fully compatible with each other. My personal experience leans more towards "Pair the device and cross my fingers that it is compatible". If it's not, nothing works.

Otherwise; They all use the same basic tech (PIR, Resistance for water sensing, magnets and reed switches for door/window open closed) so it really comes down to implementation.

The lights are decent, I've had 2 fail so far, but both were on the same spot so I suspect something's wrong there.

The motion sensor has been pretty reliable, still working with no signs of failure. Delays or "dropped" events (the light not turning on) have been very rare and most likely a result of the ancient server I have than the motion sensor itself.

Heads up: you can bind two ZigBee devices directly. So a sensor can trigger a light without requiring a hub to even be on. It can even work across the mesh network.

You could open any Z-Wave device and find exactly the same chip, usually on a daughterboard. It worked well enough on mains power, but battery life sucked. This started to change several years ago, but battery-powered devices are still hit-and-miss.

ZigBee has always had a robust infrastructure of manufacturers, who actually compete on quality and price.

https://www.aqara.com/us/product/presence-sensor-fp2

Source: own it and the website doesn’t say matter. Also an engineer working on matter products.

> Support of the new smart home standard, Matter, is also planned for the FP2, and will be added to the device via a subsequent OTA update

https://www.aqara.com/us/aqara-adds-presence-sensor-fp2-to-i...

I am very happy with the Aqara devices but they're relatively expensive. The sonoff stuff is garbage (sometimes needs re-association with the controller for no clear reason, and always when I replace the batteries.. which is often), the IKEA stuff (switches and motion sensors mostly) has by far the best price/performance ratio and is quite reliable, but the battery life is quite disappointing on all of them.

The new motion sensor having 3 AAA batteries (rather than 2xCR2032) should ensure a rather less disappointing battery life!

An important part of my setup is that all the switches in my house still work, and won't actually cut power to the bulbs. There are decent options available to add a Zigbee (or wifi) dimmer/relay/remote behind an existing light switch, which is also great for controlling lights that aren't Zigbee and/or multiple devices simultaneously.

This has the added benefit that the stuff it's controlling doesn't have to be on the same circuit, and "rewiring" a light switch is done very quickly in software instead of physically rewiring.

It sounds like you really mean the switches don't work? Shouldn't they cut power to the bulbs?

A core part of my home automation is that it fails gracefully. All my switches work with or without any Internet or home assistant server. My electronic locks still have a keypad and physical key, etc. If all the brains went away today, the only impact would be living life the old way. Under no circumstances do I want to find myself in the dark because my server crashed or the Internet connection failed.

Yes, but only if the light it's controlling isn't zigbee. If the light itself is Zigbee I never want that device offline, because it's frustrating to have inconsistent state when controlling it through the various ways we're used to.

> A core part of my home automation is that it fails gracefully.

Same. Most of my light switches have a Zigbee relay (or Shelly) behind them controlling non-Zigbee lights, and I can flip the physical switch (which still works if/when LAN or Zigbee is down) or use remotes/voice/automation through HomeAssistant.

I do have a couple light switches that I've hard-wired to be always-on and the switch itself relies on HA to function, but that's only because they were hooked up to a single outlet and became much more useful as a "remote" rather than a hardwired 110v toggle.

You'll find that the failure mode is the opposite of what you're worried about. If you rip out your hub and flip your main fuse off/on you'll find yourself in the blinding light, not the dark. When the bulbs are powered on and can't reach the hub they default to 100%.

This is actually one of my favorite features.

If I mess up my HA setup or anything like that, then worse case my "smart bulbs" are functionally identical to "dumb bulbs"

Does anyone have any experience with how far it can reach through typical indoor construction?

This "LR" stuff you mention is what I think some are calling the Z-Wave 800 series. It more than doubles the radio range of the 500 series stuff and greatly reduces power draw for battery devices. However, I have 500 and 700 series sensors that only need a battery change once every ~2 years or so. I don't find that to be too much, and the signal strength has been no problem for me in an old brick house. I do have a handful of powered zwave devices around though, and these act automatically as repeaters for the other devices in the mesh.

https://www.silabs.com/documents/login/presentations/design-...

I’m having a surprisingly hard time finding EU regulatory limits for Z-wave non-LR. ISTR some source saying that the FCC had a much stronger limit on power spectral density, which is where the -1dBm limit came from, and the EU may allow something higher.

LR is a rather different thing — slightly different frequency, very different topology, and it requires explicit controller software support. As far as I can tell, most or all 800 series hardware supports LR, 700 might with appropriate firmware, and earlier chips do not. node-zwave-js does not yet support LR, but someone seems to be working on it (slowly).

It's the humidity sensor that makes it a "No buy" for me.

Zigbee theoretically can use this same frequency but in practice none of the devices do.

Make sure your hub has actual external antennas.

Anyway, I believe that Z-wave outside the US has better range that ZigBee. I’m thoroughly unconvinced that this is the case in the US, but I haven’t seen actual data.

With external antennas most of your devices (unless you have a really large home) will connect directly to the hub. And even the ones that hop will go through walls better with the Z-wave frequency - this especially helps if you have lath and plaster in your home, or metal electrical boxes for the switches/outlets.

The z-wave frequency in other countries is basically the same - they are all in the upper 800's, lower 900's MHz. https://www.silabs.com/wireless/z-wave/global-regions

But nearly all of their electric devices are odd shapes for the USA. For example, their Tradfri outlets take are so bulky that they prevent two from being plugged into a standard two plug outlet.

Discrete sensors are a benefit to IKEA (to help them sell them), but consumers probably care more about them being discreet.

The flip side to this, is Zigbee stuff always has a lot of little quirks, problems, or bugs. There's literally an entire module/database for ZHA (Zigbee Home Assistant addon) called ZHA Quirks that's designed to work around all the little issues with various devices.

I'll be happy when/if Thread becomes the norm and I can just run everything through Apple HomeKit. Though for some reason, I still don't see a Thread in-wall dimmer available, which seems crazy to me.

But some days I'm tempted to swap them all for Lutron Caseta. That just gets a bit pricey (both to swap, and then to expand).

These switches are all GE (Jasco) units. My Inovelli switches are rock solid, as well as my Kwikset deadbolt.

I should probably replace the GEs with Inovellis...

https://www.schlage.com/en/home/smart-locks/connect-zwave.ht...

This would give you the "is locked or not" capability you seek here, but obviously requires a replacement of your door lock (perhaps not trivial if renting, but is a very easy DIY otherwise).

I just finished moving all my Hue lights from the official hub to zigbee2mqtt + USB dongle, in preparation for the upcoming enshitification (Hue app will require online account).

If upper floors' floor drains route to lower floors before joining with other plumbing on the lower floor, that would prevent backups from rising to the upper floor drains (unless their particular pipe was clogged, which should be unusual in a residential floor drain). But you'll have this issue at least at the lowest level of the dwelling.

Basements are not common where I've lived, but where present in custom houses, they tend to be fully finished and plumbed and then they'd have floor drains too.

In some buildings elsewhere, I have seen a less finished basement, with only laundry and a slop sink... That slop sink may be where a backup from the lateral to the utility sewer (or septic system) would come out. But that's not a common look for a fully custom home.

Lived in an apartment where the front-loader managed to pump a sock into the high-flow drain where it got stuck. That was fun...

(Also had a front-loader break it's door seal, also a lot of fun...)

The washing machine, not so much. The water lines and spin cycle aren’t particularly loud, but they’re loud and distinct enough that it’s too loud for me at night.

I'd love to have an upstairs W&D, but I wouldn't install one with a secondary drain pan.

Some reasons I would not want this is: need to pour water in periodically to keep the trap from drying out and the risk of a sewage backup covering every room in literal shit.

It is really weird that for all the smart crap manufactures want to stuff into appliances, leak detection isn't particularly high up on the list. It can't really be because it's hard to do, leak detectors are often one of the earliest sensor types available for new smart home kits.

A sensor can alert someone but doesn't stop the water. There are alternatives:

1) An electric valve directly at the tap that the machine actuates when it needs water. Usually comes with hose-in-hose to capture water from a ruptured line and detect and stop releasing water.

2) Quantity limiting devices to limit the quantity that can be used contiguously, and reset when the flow stops. Set to the maximum needed by the machine. Should there be any leak, the possible damage is limited. No electricity needed.

IKEA does do a good job with Homekit support (unless the new hub is different) but really wish I did not need that hub anymore.

I am glad that someone is trying to push down the insane home automation tech prices.

Side note: I really hate modern SEO. There is not a single link to the actual Hub mentioned in the article, but there are 2 links to the same article about said hub twice.

Posted it in another comment here already, but this is my go-to resource to figure out compatibility: https://zigbee.blakadder.com/

And pretty much any zigbee device can be compatible with any gateway. In many cases it's just whether someone has taken the time to wire it up in the software or not.

Home Assistant is an unwieldy monolith where spitting out the components would give you so much more control. The side that receives the data works well, however. The quality of the plotting in it is substandard, as is the inbuilt data storage and access. Configuring via YAML is painful, especially when you want derived values (e.g. calculating absolute humidity from RH sensor readings. HomeAssistant comes with no way to clean up dirty data which is something you'll see on their forums that many people request, as cheap sensors are notorious for spurious readings.

It's easy and polished which is why I and I suspect others use it, but I wish there was a modular rewrite.

If we are rewriting HomeAssistant, let's do it in Rust :) Only half joking.

That said, I refuse to write automation in YAML. Logic doesn't really belong in YAML. Declarative stuff would be decent if all you did was to specify a desired end state and let it figure out how to get to that state. But triggers with the equivalent of 'if' conditions that run actions? Let me write the IF. It makes a big difference if you say "Lights should be on between X and Y" versus "condition: after: x before: y: action: turn on". Trivial cases are easy, but when you start combining them it becomes a nightmare.

I have done a lot with NodeRED but it is... strange. It does save me from writing YAML (I do enough of that on my day job), at the expense of being weird and not easy to debug.

As for plotting data, you can send that to Prometheus or InfluxDB and go from there.

I also wish there was an alternative. And more modular "plugins". And a "HA" option. As it is, I have a single raspberry Pi that, while backed up and could be replicated if needed, will go offline for updates and the like, not able to run any automation in the mean time.

It does work though.

I've got several outdoor and indoor hydryponics systems set up that way and it's been a joy (except for the RaspberryPi SD card dying on me, which I've since replaced with a more reliable SSD based SBC)

[1] https://cloudfree.shop/

I've got an indoor living wall that I'm thinking of converting to hydro.

Indoors I just have relays controlling lighting and air pumps for a deep water culture system.

And yet some comments are complaining that it’s more expensive than a Tuya-based solution or whatever. I think this is at the heart of the problem: people want the longevity and cost of a dumb-home product, but the value of these things is rooted in software. Cognitive dissonance ensues—“you want me to pay a subscription for a door lock?” At least here, IKEA is allowing point-to-point communication that could eliminate moving targets of other companies’ software.

The new hub is different, and does not work with the old Ikea system.

> Ikea ... has “decided to delay this functionality” and will provide an update “when it’s time.” The ongoing delay is understandable given that Ikea’s products already integrate well with other platforms, and the company is focused on keeping things as simple as possible for anyone who delves into the smart home on a whim while shopping for a new bookcase. And when you consider the hurdles required to get everything running on Matter networks during this period of transition, Ikea’s delay is more than justified.

I totally agree, but the real problem is people uncritically sharing and promoting articles from low-quality publications. In other words, your wrath is better directed at the HN users who submit and upvote articles from these low-effort sites. There are plenty of publications, such as LWN, that use links to help the reader, rather than to help themselves through Google’s algorithms.

What I like best about it is it can not only set off a siren and notify me in the app, it'll also send a text message and even call my phone which is huge because if I have a water leak I want to know no matter what.

Insurance companies will give you a small discount if you have one installed as well.

I live in a co-op building from 1929 so it's really the only point of failure in the unit that would be my liability if there was a leak and it already saved me once when the old tailpiece on my drain cracked.

There are a bunch of options at Home Depot, Lowes, and your local hardware store.

These have a loud alarm on them and I don't believe they need to be hooked up to the hub to work (just for push notifications).

> detect opening doors and windows, motion indoors and out

If these devices are sending that data back to Ikea, they're surely planning to monetize it somehow.

Also, it seems like they did their homework.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/371121017_Security_...

I am all for shitting on BigCo when they do something bad. But when someone does something right, it's just fair to point that out too.