银翼杀手服装设计 (2020)
Blade Runner Costume Design (2020)

原始链接: https://costumedesignarchive.blogspot.com/2020/12/blade-runner-1982.html

## 银翼杀手:服装总结 查尔斯·克诺德(在迈克尔·卡普兰的协助下)设计了《银翼杀手》的服装,旨在打造一种扎根于1930/40年代黑色电影时尚的未来主义美学。哈里森·福特的瑞克·戴克尔穿着标志性的棕色风衣和一系列独特图案的衬衫——他因《夺宝奇兵》后拒绝戴帽子而闻名。 服装反映了人物性格。加夫(爱德华·詹姆斯·奥尔莫斯)体现了爱德华时代的纨绔子弟,而罗伊·巴蒂(鲁特格·豪尔)则具有微妙的军事风格。复制人莱昂(布里恩·詹姆斯)和普利斯(达瑞尔·汉纳)的造型旨在反映他们的出身——莱昂穿着未来主义的监狱制服,普利斯则穿着挑衅性的虎纹服装。 瑞秋(肖恩·杨)的迷人造型灵感来自1930年代的设计师,如吉尔伯特·艾德里安,以及80年代的强势着装,包括引人注目的丝绸套装和华丽的皮草大衣。其他关键造型包括泰瑞尔华丽的晨袍和塞巴斯蒂安色彩鲜艳、破旧的服装。许多服装是在意大利服装公司制作的,使用了定制服装和潜在的二手服装,尤其是在背景人物中。这些设计为《银翼杀手》独特的氛围世界做出了重大贡献。

一个由《银翼杀手》服装设计档案链接引发的黑客新闻讨论,集中在现代科幻电影视觉创意似乎正在下降的问题上。用户认为,《银翼杀手2049》等电影的服装与原始《银翼杀手》的“过度最大化”和细节丰富的服装相比,显得简约且令人难忘。 针对这种转变,提出了几种理论。一种观点认为,电影制作人现在优先考虑高效的制作——更易于CGI集成和成本效益——而不是精细的设计。另一种观点认为,现代美学反映了一种更广泛的文化趋势,即趋向于灰度和极简主义,这种趋势源于对显得“古怪”的恐惧。一些人认为,早期的电影制作人通过更丰富的布景和服装来弥补有限的CGI,从而创造出沉浸式的世界。 对话还涉及了过去科幻美学对当前期望的影响,以及熟练的工作人员(编辑、布景设计师)在提升电影整体质量方面所起到的关键作用,即使在看似“糟糕”的制作材料下也是如此。最终,人们承认了世代差异,有些人更喜欢《2049》的风格,同时欣赏原始电影的独创性。
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原文

Costume Design by Charles Knode & Michael Kaplan

Note: In all interviews, Ridley Scott brings up only Charles Knode as the costume designer for the picture, with Knode having drawn all the costume sketches for the main characters; presumably, Kaplan's duties were most likely in the realm of 'assistant costume designer'.

Blade Runner's visual style was intended to be both old and new, being a futuristic spin on the 1930s and 1940s fashions, as per the film itself being a futuristic noir.

The noir influence is seen very clearly with the costume worn by Harrison Ford as replicant hunter Rick Deckard, who always wears a brown trenchcoat over various custom-made patterned shirts.

It should be worth noting that he was meant to be wearing a hat in Charles Knode's costume sketches, but thanks to having just filmed Raiders of the Lost Ark, Ford was adamant to not wear any headwear at all! Really, can we just take a minute to appreciate just how many quirky patterned shirts were custom-made for Ford's title role? Of course the highlight for me is the green and brown shirt crisscrossed with red and blue lining, but the other shirts are pretty fun too! In some scenes, Ford wears a brown blazer instead of his trenchcoat. According to this auction listing, the blazer - and presumably the rest of Blade Runner's costumes - were constructed at Ital Costume, a Hollywood costume house.

(I don't know if the striped sweater and grey cardigan that Ford wears in Blade Runner's final scenes were custom-made items, or if they were just vintage clothing Knode or Kaplan had found)

Fellow detective Gaff (Edward James Olmos) is dressed more like an Edwardian 'dandy', wearing a yellow or silvery waistcoat under his slightly futuristic vinyl-lined trenchcoat along with bow tie and trilby hat.

Gaff also sports a grey variation on the vinyl-lined trenchcoat as well in some scenes, again obscured by the film's atmospheric lighting.

(As for other named LAPD characters in the film, I have no idea if the suit worn by Morgan Paull as Holden, or the shirt and jacket worn by M. Emmet Walsh as Bryant, were custom-made for each actor or just bought vintage clothing due to their minor roles) Two sets of futuristic police uniforms were made for the extras playing the LAPD officers. The first uniform consists of a custom-made string top, with motorbike armor stuck on. The second uniform is a custom made brown vinyl coat and hat, only seen in production photos. A futuristic trenchcoat was made for Rutger Hauer as the rogue replicant's ringleader, Roy Batty. The jacket has a slightly militaristic feeling, befitting the character's background as a soldier. The rest of Hauer's costume, like the trousers and vest, were most likely bought items. Batty's lackey is the replicant Leon, played by Brion James. Leon's first costume is a futuristic prison uniform, that resembles a medical 'Howie coat'; I think this was custom-made for Brion James, not a bought item. Leon's next costume is a vinyl trenchcoat and work jacket; I also feel these were custom-made for Brion James, due to the cut of the jacket being similar to the menswear Knode designed for the picture. Batty and Leon pay a visit to the scientist Chew, played by James Hong. Knode designed and fabricated a thick furred coat for Hong to wear, as his character worked in sub-zero temperatures. Much of the film's more glamorous looks are worn by Sean Young as the replicant Rachel. Again befitting the futuristic noir look, many of Young's costumes were inspired by the padded shoulder suits designed by Gilbert Adrian, combined with the then-emerging fashion trend of 1980s 'power dressing'.

Rachael's first costume is a shiny black two piece suit made out of silk with black snakeskin pieces fixed on the collar and shoulders. A prim yet glamorous design, made more evocative with Young's pompadour hairstyle.

Rachael's second outfit is a blue fur coat with a large high collar black fur wrap, lined with black silk going down in the middle, and with striped black and grey fur cuffs. Rachael's third outfit (perhaps the most famous) is a fur coat patterned in chevron stripes of different fur colours of grey and white. The fur coat, with its high collar, slightly resembles a parka. Rachel's fourth outfit is another tribute to Gilbert Adrian's designs, being a silk two piece suit made up of striped blocks of shiny fabrics, giving it a futuristic touch. Rachel's last outfit is a charming brown-striped blouse, seen briefly towards the film's end. A deep blue tuxedo was custom-made for Joe Turkel to wear as the scientist and corporate leader Tyrell. Tyrell is next seen wearing a heavy dressing gown, made of a mosaic-like patterned fabric. The implication was that Tyrell was so opulent he could even wear a gown that acted as a bed in its own right. The gown is worn over a nightie, also custom-made for Turkel. Sebastian (William Sanderson) wears one of the film's more colourful costumes; astudded multicoloured jacket and striped overalls, worn with a leather cap. The outfit gives him a slightly mischievous look, given that he is more or less a future equivalent of a toymaker.

For filming, the coat was weathered to give Sebastian a more dishivelled look, as if he had been in poverty for a long time.

Pris (Daryl Hannah), being a futuristic prostiture, of course wears a sensual costume. Hannah sports a tiger-pattern striped jacket, worn over a shimmering patterned romper, vest and stockings, finished with a studded choker and large white hairdo.

(More than likely Hannah's second costume as Pris, worn in the confrontation with Deckard, was merely a bought spandex unitard)

Zhora (Joanna Cassidy) is another rogue Replicant who works as an exotic dancer. As part of her work in the 'Snake Pit', she wears not much at all except translucent orange nipple pasties and underwear!

(Sometimes, almost no costume is still a costume!)

During her escape, she wears a leather bikini, and leather padded boots fixed with metal spikes, worn with a (possibly bought?) clear plastic raincoat. The kinky costume is in line with the character's role as a future sex worker. I have neglected to include the various extras costumes, including these in behind the scenes and publicity photographs, partly as there's an infuriating lack of information on them, and partly as I feel most of them were not made for the film.

At least two extras in the 'Snake Pit' sequence are wearing costumes reused from the 1968 musical Star. No doubt the extras in the street scenes wore a mix of wardrobe stock, vintage clothing and bought contemporary clothing. Should any of these outfits be auctioned, or more information arise, I will amend this accordingly!

(A brief note - because of the film's more dynamic direction often not showing costumes in full or in clear lighting, a lot of production photos were used in this post, and I had to find most of them online with no clear sources. Apologies if it was distracting, or if I didn't manage to remember where I'd found the images! I know one of them was a public Imgur gallery.)
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